Before he speak his suit bespoke

Perfect Fit

Dressed smart like a London bloke. Before he speak his suit bespoke.’
Kanye West, American Boy.

The infinite wisdom of Kanye West does not end at who should have won the ‘Best Video’ category at the VMA’s.

He knows that slick suits – perfectly tailored to your frame – are rapidly becoming a male necessity.

Don’t believe Kanye? Then cop this. A highly scientific study conducted by my judgemental friends and I confirms: men are more attractive, more confident and stand taller in well-tailored suits.

So, how do you know what to look for when taking the plunge into custom made threads?

I’ve got three words for you: Cut. Is. King.

Transformers are so retro-cool-right-now, but your suit jacket shouldn’t make you look like one. Cross your arms over your chest (go on, give yourself a man hug) when trying your jacket. If you have just enough room to move comfortably, you’ve found a winner.

Here’s three more words to remember: baggy is bad. MC Hammer rocked the look in the 80’s but he that was just an embarrassing blip on the pop-culture radar. Besides, he’s broke now. But be careful – go too far the other way and you could be having your own David Bowie moment. And it’s not great for the manhood, man. Your trousers should fit comfortably in the waist and thighs. They should give you flattering but not revealing ‘shop frontage’. And, when it comes to length, remember what Jane Austen would say: ankles are unsightly.

If you love the pants get a second pair made. You won’t regret it.

Choose the best fabric you can afford. The higher the grade of fabric, the longer it will last and the better it will feel. Simple as that. Not sure what you like? Just give the fabrics a ‘rub test.’ Feels good? It probably is.

Choose an unconventional lining colour to make the suit your own. Grey with purple. Navy with orange. It will make you feel dangerous when people get a tantalising peek of your ‘inner lining demon’, you dirty dawg.

The shirt you choose is just as important as the suit. Nothing bought in plastic wrapping and stacked on shelf of sale items should touch your skin. Apply the same rules of fabric and cut to a shirt as you would a suit. But be playful. Choose a fabric that expresses your individual style. A well fitted shirt can shred kilos from your frame, define a waist and sharpen your shoulders. If you’re not sure what looks best – ask your experienced tailor.

So you’ve nailed the suit, shirt and tie. You’re feeling good about yourself, aren’t you? Walking taller? Strutting even? Well stop right there. Because nothing spoils a look like a peek of white sports socks or scuffed shoes. It’s all in the detail, darlings. Invest in a smart pair of dark socks, and give your shoes a spit and polish before click clacking your way down ol’ business town.

And finally, when it comes to neck ties, there is only one golden ‘do not wear under any circumstances’ rule. Novelty ties, I’m looking at you.

Custom made suits are timeless and are a forever reliable way of making a man look a million bucks. Go on, make Kanye proud.